Television in Colour

F7 | LIFESTYLE by Kelechi Iwumene
May 27, 2015
11 min read

FashionBeans is the number one men’s fashion and style guide online. Their writers cover everything from building seasonal wardrobes to giving advice about the best shaving cream. I occasionally skim through their articles for inspiration and recently came across a feature entitled 5 Stylish TV Characters. In this article, the writer lists how five actors whose signature looks can inspire our own sense of style. With the birth of such TV shows like Game of Thrones and Breaking Bad, actors and actresses are temporarily abandoning their film pursuits to adopt the popularity of the small screen. About 10.3 million viewers tuned in to watch the final episode of Breaking Bad. The creators of the show cleverly used social media to fan viewership; never underestimate the power of word-of-mouth when generating buzz for your projects. Actors and actresses are drawn to the success of the small screen because viewers are drawn to the small screens recent successes. Large amounts of money is being pumped into shows to make them look just as epic as the big screen. The total budget of the first season of Game of Thrones has been estimated as $50-60 million. Such shows now have a massive fan base so profits are abundant.

5 Stylish TV Characters highlights the large spheres of influence that these shows give to stylishly dressed protagonists. The article does not make these five actors out as being the only style muses of the little silver screen but it does point out that these men are the most popular which got me thinking. Finishing the article, I noticed something very apparent; a question popped into my head that I verbalised out loud:

Where are all the black guys?

Moreover, why aren’t there any actors from other ethnic minorities represented in this list of stylishly dressed men? Surely I could easily think of five more actors who could have graced this article; you would think it was easy to come up with five more but I’d be surprised if you even came up with three more; three actors who are equally diverse, distinctly fashionable, and whose leading work is currently in season. I first thought of the interests of western popular culture; then I considered the FashionBeans’ targeted readership; then I pondered on how the taste and preferences of the individual writer effected the nature of his selection process. I realised just how filtered and subjective cultural content can be. I came to this conclusion: modern television remains racially segregated. Sure, people may disagree with this statement, arguing that shows like Empire and Black-ish prove that television is not racially segregated but these shows monopolise on the large ethnic minority viewership in America. The final episode of Empire showed strength with African-American viewers, posting a 43.4/94 rating with adults aged between the ages 18-49. This was a higher rating than the similar demographic of last year’s Super Bowl by 30%. Moreover the artistic representation of black people in these show is at times derogatory and condescending; Empire’s Luscious Lyon is a famous music mogul with a murderous past; he also fathers three sons whose mother was recently incarcerated. Watching an episode of Empire, I understand that the quality performances of the actors/ actresses and the progression of the script indicate that there’s more to these characters than their blatant vices but a stereotype is a stereotype no matter how you ‘dress’ it.

The truth about popular culture is that we only watch what we like and we only like what we’re familiar with—or what we identify with most. Conversing with a colleague at work, he told me how difficult it is for a British citizen of Chinese origin to teach English in a foreign country:

Parents want their children who go to private school to be taught English by English looking teachers.

And this is what I suggest has been happening to the nature of our viewership—even if its occurrence is hidden under massive layers of political correctness and what it means to live in the post-Obama generation. Don’t get me wrong, there is progress, but not without bigotry finding its new home in subtle comedy and in the subconscious of western pop culture. So in my attempt to expose and resist the acceptance of such taste, I decided to list stylish TV personalities from the ethnic minority community. The very word ‘minority’ tragically paints a demographic where the majority has more influence over media; an unfair representation of the ethnic minority will be resolved when media and entertainment is supported and developed in other parts of the world. But I doubt Hollywood are willing to share the power; to decentralise control over media culture would probably lead to a new kind of world war; World War Entertainment or WWE!

However, I’m not proposing a war with my list of stylish TV characters; I’m not even hinting to an alternative, for such a word (alternative) carries a sense of otherness and illegitimacy that I want to keep away from. I’m simply recommending something more; something new. Consider this list a continuation; a somewhat evolution that does not make the latter better than the former but simply more complete. That’s it. That’s the word I’m looking for; completion. Let’s get the whole picture on stylish TV personalities shall we?

Whilst researching, I had to resist digging up the treasures of the past. I avoided mentioning shows like The Cosby Show for I am convinced that a lack of progress in racially integrated entertainment is not that outdated. My research communicated two things to me: 1) Many of the TV shows with leading actors from ethnic minorities were predominately from the US (naturally) 2) There were more sitcoms than actual dramas; some say such a phenomenon stems from the minstrel shows of the 1800s. White performers used theatrical makeup called blackface to impersonate black people as dim-witted, lazy, buffoonish, superstitious, happy-go-lucky, and musical. To an extent, many of these characteristics are still reflected in the black sitcom characters of today. Coincidence? However, I did find British drama to be more promising. Three of the shows mentioned in my list were filmed and produced by the British; give me a TV miniseries filled with leading black characters and high stake drama any day! So after hours of deliberating, I boiled it down to six stylish TV characters. It was meant to be five but why should it be limited to five?

JOHN LUTHER: ‘INNOCENCE IS A NEGATIVE. IT’S THE ABSENCE OF GUILT.’ Black British actor Idris Elba plays John Luther in the crime drama entitled Luther. It follows a detective whose brilliant mind solves the most mysterious of crimes but struggles to save him from the dangerous violence of his own passions. The plot and characters—now in its fourth series— is rich and complex. Idris Elba’s wardrobe is borderline iconic. James Keast is the show’s costume designer; he sums up the detective’s look as ‘shades of grey with flashes of colour.’ He took his inspiration from a Ukrainian photographer who calls the shades and textures he captures on his camera as the ‘no hope colours.’ John Luther is wrapped up in a colour that foretells the hopelessness of his pursuits and desires whether it be with women or on the job. Whilst most detectives wear suits, Keast says ‘Luther is a maverick who pushes the limit of what he can get away with.’ If you saw John Luther across the street you would most likely see him wearing a Paul Smith coat, a Nicole Farhi jacket, Ralph Laurent trousers, shirts from Marks & Spencer, and Grenson shoes. The look is sharp, grave, and full of quality. A low haircut and a bit of stubble finishes it off. The glaring red tie is from a charity shop; a representation of danger that is reflected in the character. If you want to replicate Luther’s style, invest in a good grey winter coat, play around with different shades of grey basic separates (a brown tinge adds depth to the colour), and don’t forget your bold coloured accessories!

OLIVIA POPE: ‘JUSTICE OR YOUR CAREER. I CAN ONLY GET YOU ONE. SO WHAT DO YOU WANT?’ American actress Kerry Washington plays the beguiling Olivia Pope in the political thriller entitled Scandal. Ms Pope is a former media relations consultant for the US President. She opens up a crisis-management firm in an attempt to shake ties off with her past. She ends up cleaning up after her those whom she appoints as staff to clean up the mess of clients. Many fans of the show talk about Pope’s loungewear. In an episode, the crisis manager wears a Donna Karan Sweater and LA Perma Pyjama Pants in beige and ivory hues. The relaxed look is inspired by women in the ‘50s and ‘60s who would wear beautiful loungewear to dinner parties. Pope’s Max Mara Ensemble was an outfit that got Twitter exploding with commentary. The dress and jacket come in a mint green that is different from Pope’s classic outfits. In addition, Pope equally dazzles in Jean Fares Couture Gown. The designer had a nightmare tracking down the dress, and tailoring it to fit Kerry Washington. But her hard work paid off; the actress looked stunning. To emulate the president’s mistress, always try and mix up your suit ensembles with an emphasis on fabric as well as colour. And don’t shy away from extravagant silhouettes like elbow length gloves and distinct hats. Let’s hope you emulate her sense of style and not her morals.

WILL ‘THE FRESH PRINCE’ SMITH: ‘AINT’T NO THANG BUT A CHICKEN WING.’ Will Smith plays a fictionalised version of himself in the American sitcom entitled The Fresh Prince of Bel Air. I don’t think I’ve come across any 20-something black year old who does not know the opening lines of the sitcoms theme music Yo Home To Bel Air. However much I tried to keep the list of stylish TV characters current, I could not leave this one out. Will Smith’s distinctive street wear is a style wrapped in a period that still resonates today. The actor created a cult following out of wearing vibrant colours with Jordan’s. My favourite outfits from the show include: the snapback hat he wore with a school blazer turned inside out to show off a rich paisley pattern; a black and grey varsity jacket with a flannel shirt tied around his waist; the Jumpman tracksuit in cornflower blue; and the purple and lime green contrasting shirts, Zubaz pants, and Air Jordan V’s. With every season, Will Smith’s style matured; he began to move away from the bright colours and fed in pieces that reflected his changing personality. If you want to channel your inner fresh prince, go for a more relaxed (slim, straight or standard-taper) cut to your trousers, wear lighter denim and slightly over-sized tops, and don’t be afraid of contrasting patterns with bright colours. Also, you must invest in some essentials: a snapback in a range of colours and a pair of Air Jordan’s!

AAFRIN DALAL: ‘I HAVE HEARD OF BRITISH MEN WHO TAKE INDIAN WIVES— MISTRESSES— BUT NEVER THE OTHER WAY ROUND.’ Indian Summers: India 1932: with many Indians pushing for their country’s independence, British expats struggle to keep control. In an attempt to destabilise independent movements, Aafrin Dalal is a young Parsi, used as British propaganda. His work in the Indian Civil Service grants him access to the privileges of the colonial whites. It also requires him to dress in the most sharpest of summer suits. We’re talking forest green, beige, and brown ensembles with maroon, stripe and spotted ties. Nikesh Patel is a British actor who effortlessly pulls off the anxiety of a young man trying to find his place in the world. As the primary household earner, the character Aafrin Dalal is burdened with the responsibility of providing for his family. The viewer experiences this intense plot play out before an exotic and beautiful back drop. How Aafrin Dalal manages to remain sharp and composed in the hottest of climates and amongst the most dramatic of personalities is a mystery. I guess it’s partly to do with his emotive brown eyes and strong jaw line, his clean shaven face, Ivy League haircut, and his incredible command of British decorum. If guys want to recreate the look, get rid of the hipster beard and stick to the lighter fabrics when picking out your suits for the summer.

BETTY SUAREZ: ‘THERE IS NO ONE HERE WHO CARES ABOUT CHANGING THE INSIDE. THEY ONLY CARE ABOUT FIXING THE OUTSIDE.’ I know, I know. This may appear controversial to some but to me, it’s actually quite true; Ugly Betty is not so ugly after all. America Ferrera plays Betty Suarez, a budding writer from Queens looking to be successful in the fashion industry. The American comedy drama was based on Fernando Gaitan’s telenovela Yo soy Betty, Ia fea. It’s amazing to see an actress of Latin American origin embody such an influential role in the world of TV entertainment. But it does come with its reservations. Betty is characterised as being ‘ugly’ and the complete opposite to the glamourous models, beautiful clothes, and glossy editorials that make up MODE—the high fashion magazine based in Manhattan. Some of her character’s stylish highlights include: absurdly detailed jackets and floral print arrangements, block colour hosiery, large belts, and the infamous Mexican poncho. Although the portrayal of the brace-and-glasses-wearing protagonist feeds the unassuming western psyche about the ways we measure beauty, Betty still carries valuable lessons about personal style. The show tells us that we should not compromise the way we dress to appropriate for others. I doubt anyone would want to replicate all of Betty’s wardrobe at once; I would say that with every outfit you wear, stick to adapting only one of her stylish tropes.

JACK ROSS: ‘I’M NO MORE AFRICAN THAN YOU MR CARSON.’ Black British actor Gary Carr plays Jack Ross in the award winning drama Downton Abbey. Ross is a Chicago based jazz singer loosely based upon the scandalous black jazz singer Leslie Hutch Hutchinson. Like Leslie, Ross falls in love with a white woman, Lady Rose; her family frown upon their relationship because of Ross’ occupation and skin colour. Rose is captivated by who Ross is and how he treats her; ‘he’s more risqué because he’s a singer and leads his own band than because he is black.’ Many critics argued that Carr’s character was merely a ‘token’ that was out of historical context. But history proves that many parts of post-WW1 Europe warmly received US jazz singers like Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington. Jack Ross’ three piece tuxedo is absolutely wonderful and effortlessly cool: large peak silk lapels, a white waist coat, and a white wing tipped collar shirt with matching bow tie. There is no doubt that in such an aristocratic world, Gary Carr holds his own. To execute the dapper look, jheri curl the hair on top of your fade, and shave everything but your moustache. Felt fedoras could also be used to smarten more casual outfits.

The quote I’ve used for Jack Ross is the most striking out of all the quotes. It helps me to understand something very important about the politics of race in art and culture. There is a fundamental difference between race and culture. To tell me that you are black or white, tells me nothing about your culture. The problem arises where people make assumptions about the way you view and live life based on the colour of your skin. However, your pigmentation has nothing to do with the way you live your life—or the way you dress even. We should replace the phrase ‘I am a person of colour’ with ‘I am a person of culture.’ This is because we are all people of different colour, but we are not all people of the same culture. The characters and themes we use to identify with each other should not be impeded or limited to our ethnic groups.

Article by Kelechi Iwumene

References:

Wikipedia: Jheri Curls, Minstrel Shows, Game of Thrones, Blackface.
Downton Abbey actor Gary Carr shrugs off criticism of jazz singer character, Margy Rochlin, New York Post, January 18th 2014, 11:30am.
TV Fanatic: Downton Abbey Quotes, The Fresh Prince of Bel Air Quotes, Scandal Quotes, Ugly Betty Quotes.
Ugly Betty’s Fabulous Fashions, TVGuide.com
Indian Summers - Profiles, Channel4.com.
The Fresh Prince’s 25 Greatest Outfits, Complex UK.
Olivia Pope’s Top 10 looks on Scandal, Entertainment Online.
Luther, BBC One, www.bbc.co.uk